The South Island is about the size of England and takes three times as long to drive, because almost nothing is straight. Plan by hours, not kilometres.
The route
- Days 1–2: Christchurch to Lake Tekapo (3h). Stop at the salmon farm, stay for the dark sky reserve.
- Days 3–4: Tekapo to Mount Cook (1h) and on to Wanaka (3h). Hooker Valley track is flat, short and one of the best walks in the country.
- Days 5–7: Wanaka to Queenstown (1h), with a day for Glenorchy and a day for the Routeburn.
- Days 8–9: Te Anau and Milford Sound (2h + 2h). Stay in Te Anau; the Milford road is the drive.
- Days 10–11: Queenstown to the West Coast via Haast (5h). Glaciers, rainforest, and rain.
- Days 12–13: West Coast to Arthur's Pass (4h) and back to Christchurch (2h).
Campervan or car
A campervan removes accommodation booking and adds fuel cost, slower driving and the requirement to use certified sites. Freedom camping rules are strictly enforced and vary by district — a self-contained certification sticker is essential if you plan to use it.
For two people staying in motels and cabins, a car is usually cheaper and considerably faster over a fortnight.
Timing
February and March are the best months: settled weather, warm days, fewer people than January and the first autumn colour in Wanaka and Arrowtown by late April. Winter is for skiing and the alpine passes need chains.
Sandflies
They are worse than you have been told, particularly in Fiordland and on the West Coast. Repellent, long sleeves at dusk, and windows shut.
For the region in detail, see the Queenstown and Fiordland guide.