Switzerland · Europe
Walking Hut to Hut in the Swiss Alps
Staffed mountain huts turn multi-day alpine walking into something you can do with a day pack. Here is how to book, what to bring and what to expect.
The archive
32 dispatches, written after the trip rather than during it. Every piece is reported first-hand, revised when things change on the ground, and dated so you can see how current it is.
Switzerland · Europe
Staffed mountain huts turn multi-day alpine walking into something you can do with a day pack. Here is how to book, what to bring and what to expect.
Italy · Europe
Naples invented the pizza most of the world eats badly. Here is where to eat it, what else to order, and how the city's timings work.
Portugal · Europe
Solo travel is mostly a confidence problem rather than a logistics one. What helps, what doesn't, and the specific moments people find hard.
Japan · Asia
The fortnight route we recommend most often: Tokyo, a mountain or coastal interlude, Kyoto, and no more than three check-ins.
Greece · Europe
Athens is treated as an airport with ruins attached. Give it 48 hours and it turns into one of the most interesting cities in the Mediterranean.
Faroe Islands · Europe
Almost all Faroese land is privately farmed. A system of fees and guided access has replaced open wandering — here is how it works in practice.
South Africa · Africa
Table Mountain is a genuine mountain in the middle of a city. It is also more dangerous than it looks, mostly because of how easy the start is.
Japan · Asia
Japanese food is intensely regional. Ramen changes broth every few hundred kilometres, and half the country's best meals are named after the place that invented them.
Vietnam · Asia
Hội An has its own culinary micro-region and several hundred tailors. Both reward a little knowledge and punish a rushed schedule.