Antarctica · Antarctica
What an Antarctic Expedition Voyage Is Actually Like
A day-by-day account of a peninsula voyage: the Drake, the zodiac routine, the biosecurity, and whether the cost can be justified.
64.7500° S, 62.5000° W · Antarctica
The only continent with no permanent residents, reached across the Drake
The overview
A ten-day expedition voyage from Ushuaia across the Drake Passage to a coastline of ice shelves, penguin colonies and research stations.
Almost all Antarctic tourism happens on the peninsula, the arm of the continent reaching towards South America, and almost all of it departs from Ushuaia in Argentina. The crossing of the Drake Passage takes about two days each way and is famously rough — the alternative is a flight to King George Island, which halves the sea time and doubles the price. Once south, days are structured around zodiac landings at penguin rookeries, glacier bays and historic huts, all governed by IAATO rules that cap group sizes and enforce strict biosecurity. The season runs from late October to March: early for pristine ice and courtship, mid-season for chicks, late for whales. It is the most expensive trip in this journal by a wide margin, and the one people most often describe as unrepeatable.
Highlights
Best seasons
What to do
01
Vessels under 200 passengers get more landings; those over 500 cannot land passengers at all under IAATO rules.
02
Flying the Drake to King George Island saves four days of sea and a great deal of discomfort.
03
It is exactly as cold as it sounds and entirely optional.
04
Some voyages call at working stations or the museum and post office at Port Lockroy.
A suggested route
A structure that works, not a schedule to follow to the minute. Move the days around to suit the weather.
Days 1–2
Embark, cross the passage, lectures and seabird watching from the deck.
Days 3–7
Two landings a day, weather permitting: rookeries, channels, ice shelves, historic huts.
Days 8–10
Northward crossing, briefings and the long look back.
What to eat
Ship galley cooking
All meals are aboard; most expedition ships run a good kitchen with dietary requirements handled if flagged early.
Argentine asado in Ushuaia
Worth a night either side of the voyage for the grilled lamb alone.
Centolla
King crab landed in Ushuaia, at its best in the town's oldest restaurants.
Local etiquette
Practical notes
From the archive
Combine it with